The disagreeable sensation of being gazed at by the multitude, increased by observing that the General seemed to wish to exhibit the prisoners, for the mere gratification of his vanity, made me anxious to get under cover, and I would indeed have given any thing to have been allowed to retire quietly and indulge my melancholy reflections, as well as to procure the rest and tranquillity necessary to the state of my health. These consolations were, however, denied me, for on entering the house appropriated to the General, we found it filled with public functionaries, waiting to pay their respects to him. I was obliged to submit to the fatigue and plague of a ceremonious introduction to this assembly, and afterwards to sit down with a large party to dinner, which, according to the French custom, was very short, not exceeding three quarters of an hour at table. In this respect the French and English differ greatly: – the short dinners of the former are far from being to the taste of the latter when in health and spirits. Amongst the guests was Mr. Kilpatrick, a Scotch gentleman of excellent character, who had long been established here in a commercial line, and acted as American Consul. After dinner I accompanied this gentleman to his house, where I found a large party, or converzatione, assembled, and the solicitations of my host obliged me to remain and partake of an elegant supper, at which thirty persons sat down.

The following morning (October 17), I rose early, being anxious to see the state of the fortifications towards the sea, and for that purpose I proceeded to the Mole, and found that, instead of the guns having been removed from it, it had a formidable battery of fourteen twenty-four pounders in excellent order, with furnaces for heating shot; and the Mole not being more than the height of a frigate’s quarter-deck above the water, I am convinced no fleet could hope for success in attacking it; and beyond all doubt the little squadron from which I landed would have ran the risk of almost certain destruction in the attempt. I felt therefore happy that I had resisted the proposals to that effect.

From the Mole I walked to a spot from whence I had a good view of the citadel, a very strong work, well situated on an eminence, though said to be commanded, which, together with its supposed defenceless state as reported by persons who had long resided here, led to the general belief at Gibraltar that little difficulty would be met with in its reduction; on the contrary, however, the citadel was in the most perfect state, mounting thirty-six pieces of heavy ordnance, six twelve pounders, and four mortars, with military stores and provisions for a garrison of two thousand men for two or three months ; besides, the eminence which commands it is distant fourteen hundred yards. In short, it was at this time capable of holding out against an army thrice the number of its garrison for a considerable time. From this specimen we may judge of the little dependance to be placed on the information received from the Spaniards; and this inaccuracy is the less easy to be accounted for, when we recollect that the inhabitants of the country being generally loyalists their reports may reasonably be supposed worthy of credit; the contrary has, however, been too generally the case, as is evident from the experience of Sir John Moore, and indeed of every person who has been connected with the Spaniards during the present struggle. It appears but justice to attribute this effect rather to the too hasty judgments of an over ardent zeal, than to any intention to mislead, for though the Spaniards may have many faults as a people, they possess a distinguished place among modern nations for honour, and a strict adherence to truth.

Having finished my promenade, I went by invitation to breakfast with the Governor, whom I found to be a Frenchman, and not behind any of his compatriots in volubility of speech, or rather incessant rattle. By the General’s permission, in the course of the forenoon, I sent on board the squadron for my baggage; for hitherto I had been dependant on the General for changes of linen, having with me only the suit of cloaths in which I was made prisoner. I also took this opportunity of detailing our situation by letter. A numerous party were invited to meet me at dinner at Mr. Kilpatrick’s, and though I wished for quietness, yet politeness and propriety obliged me to join a party assembled on my account.

On the morning of the 18th I received a notification to prepare to proceed immediately to Grenada with General Sebastiani, a journey which I endeavoured to get excused from on account of my ill health, but without success; the General in the politest manner stating the impossibility of my remaining at Malaga, and offering me a carriage if I found myself unable to ride. Our short stay at Malaga afforded me little opportunity of gaining information respecting it: I observed, however, that the favourable impression of its beauty received on entering it, by the handsome street I have mentioned, is soon done away, the greater part of the other streets being narrow and crooked. The Plaza Mayor itself is by no means worthy of its name: – it has however, in the centre a handsome marble fountain. The cathedral and custom-house are worthy of the traveller’s notice; the latter is a new edifice on an extensive and noble plan. The antiquary will find in this town the remains of a Roman temple.

The population of Malaga is between thirty and forty thousand souls, and though it still retains some external appearance of its former prosperity, it is but the unsubstantial shadow of departed reality. The total cessation of commerce, and the losses consequent on the war, have produced innumerable bankruptcies and universal distress; the port, which is daily growing shallower from the mud carried into it by the Gua del Medina, has lost all appearance of commercial life, some fishing boats alone being seen in movement, while a few polacres, feluccas, and other smaller vessels are laid up rotting. What a contrast with the former flourishing commerce of this city, whose annual exports were valued at near half a million sterling in wines, brandy, oil, fruits, anchovies, and some silks. Its imports, which consisted in woollens, hardware, cheese, butter, and salt fish, did not exceed half the value of its exports. Such have been the desolating effects of the unprovoked and unjustifiable invasion of the French, which, if successful, must shake the throne of every legitimate prince of Europe; for who shall then dare setting bounds to the ambition of Buonaparte, or say to him, “thus far shalt thou go, and no farther?”