1. A specimen of christal, named Pietras figuratos espata calcareo, which doubles the images presented to it. It came from Biscay.
2. An extensive and fine collection of Spanish marbles, the most beautiful of which are from Loja and Xenil.
3. Some specimens of rich silver ore from the mines of Almeria.
4. A lump of virgin gold, as taken out of the mine, weighing 16 lb. 8 oz.
5. A lump of virgin silver, weighing 265 lb. 3 oz.
6. Several specimens of christalized antimony, sulphur, iron, &c.
7. Several agates and other stones.
8. A large collection of sponges.
9. A human skull, with a pair of horns sprouting from it. On enquiry, I found it belonged to a Spaniard, but could not learn whether he was married or not!
10. Many specimens of petrified woods.
11. A mummy, very perfect.
12. A Mexican about to be pounded to death in a mortar.
13. A beautiful striped eagle, called the Imperial.
In the second apartment I noticed,
1. The skeleton of an animal, exceeding the mammoth in bulk, whose teeth denote it to have been carnivorous; but its family is unknown. Found in the Rio de la Plata.
2. Some Egyptian figures, taken in the Flora frigate.
3. The bark of some curious trees.
4. Several ornaments of teeth worn round the body and head.
5. The representation of some Spanish arms in shell work.
In the third apartment:
1. A dinner and desert service in jasper, onyx, and agate, said to be four hundred years older than the Christian era.
2. A singularly shaped beautiful shell, for which we were told that nine millions of reals had been offered.
3. Several topaz cups and a bowl of lapis lazuli.
4. A black topaz.
5. A service of plate, presented by Louis XIV.
6. The Conquest of Mexico in Mosaic.
7. A dress of the Emperor of China.
8. Some American paintings.
The fourth apartment, named the Salle de la Junto, chiefly contains pictures, of which several are very valuable, particularly
A group of Bacchanals, by Reubens.
A St. Jeronimo, by Murillo.
A Virgin, copied from Raphael.
A Woman and Child, by Murillo, peculiarly fine.
A Transfiguration, by Raphael.
An Assumption, by Cespedes.
An Ave, by Raphael.
In the fifth apartment are some well executed bronze figures.
A Venus, by Titian.
A Model of the Ruins of Saguntum.
Statues of Achilles and Patrocles.
Statue of Venus.
The Battle of the Horatii and Curiatii, in relief.
Having detained my companion a whole day in taking only a cursory view of this museum, I invited him to dine with me at Briere and Colignon’s, and was entertained by his volubility; though it was with him, as with most of his countrymen, vox et pretśrea nihil. –– After dinner I received a visit from an officer of the 26th Chasseurs à Cheval, to request my company at a masonic meeting. The forms of admission were very serious; but I went through them sufficiently well, and received a warm welcome from the brethren, particularly from Colonel Vial, commanding the 26th Chasseurs, who was master of the lodge, and who invited me to supper and to dinner the next day. At supper, when the punch began to mount, each played some ridiculous trick to divert the company; one making hideous grimaces, another taking off a priest in his robe, by means of a towel on his fingers; a third shaped mice out of the parings of apples, &c. &c. Indeed, I must do the French the justice to acknowledge that they far excel us in the art of making fools of themselves pour passer le temps.
On rising one morning I learnt, as I had foretold, that several of the prisoners had been obliged to be sent to the hospital, and that some serious quarrels had taken place between the English and Germans; finding also that the only provision yet supplied them was bread and water, I made enquiry whether the Government really allowed nothing more, and found that it contracted for half a pound of meat per man her diem, and consequently that there was a gross imposition somewhere. I therefore again addressed myself to the Adjutant de Place, who, as usual, fell into a passion, and endeavoured to bully me into silence; but finding me determined not to remain a tame spectator of the cruel and fraudulent treatment of those, for whom both duty and humanity called upon me to interfere, his passion knew no bounds, and he was about to draw his sword on me, though unarmed and a prisoner, when I told him that I had but one life to lose, and that I would cheerfully lay it down for the satisfaction of chastising such a ruffian, and procuring justice for my countrymen and fellow sufferers that if he attempted to draw his sword, he should mark the consequence; and that at all events I would write to General Beliard on the subject of the prisoners, for I was well assured that it was with his (the Adjutant’s) connivance that they were thus shamefully cheated of their provisions. This I immediately did, and meat was in consequence afterwards issued.
The condition of the prisoners while their allowance was thus withheld, would have been truly deplorable, had not the Spanish inhabitants generously assisted them; and it was not uncommon to see women of respectability conveying to them not only victuals but clothes, though they were repeatedly repulsed by the guards, who were also sometimes softened by the charms of the females employed in these acts of humanity. As I had gained my point in the article of meat, I thought it better to drop all appearance of animosity towards the Adjutant; and one day, when a beautiful girl solicited permission to deliver some victuals to the prisoners in his presence, and was refused, I addressed him with “Monsieur est François?” –– to which he replied, “Parbleu, oui!” –– I then continued, “formerly the French were conspicuous above all the nations of the world for their gallantry and complaisance towards the fair sex, and I cannot conceive it possible that so great a change has taken place in their manners, that a Frenchman can deny the request of a charming girl, to be permitted to do a benevolent action, in succouring the distrest prisoner!” This address had the desired effect in softening the Adjutant, who admitted not only the girl in question, but several others, to converse with the prisoners, and bring them provisions, shirts, and other necessaries.
While at dinner one day with Colonel Vial, I was waited on by a Monsieur Guillet, who, with a profusion of compliments, informed me that he had prepared apartments for me in his house, concluding in the usual style of French sincerity, “disposez de moi en tout ce que pouvez vous faire plaisir.” On enquiring into the character of this person, I found it was not one of the best; but being aware that the French, as well as the Irish, abuse each other without cause, I paid little attention to the report; besides I had no alternative but to remain uncomfortable at the Retiro, or to accept his offer; and though I strongly suspected that he was intended to be placed as a spy over me, I prepared to take up my quarters in his house; besides, I learnt that he was a connoisseur in paintings, and received a salary from King Joseph, to collect the most valuable pictures. I therefore hoped to receive much information from him on this subject; and on my making my wishes known to him, he offered to accompany me the following day to view the best collections.
In our way to the palace, we crossed the Prado, which I have already mentioned as probably the most superb promenade in the world, and being almost the only one at Madrid, it is crowded with people, whose dresses and equipages cannot fail to amuse the stranger. In both respects the Spaniards are at least a century behind the English or French. Here we see a coachman with a bag wig, a livery covered with gold lace, and an enormous cocked hat, all appearing to have served several generations, awkardly driving at a snail’s pace, a pair of mules in harness of crimson velvet, covered with a profusion of gilt buckles and plates, their manes platted with various coloured ribbands, falling in large bowknots, and attached to a heavy carriage, carved and gilded all over, through the glasses of which is seen an ancient Grandee, in full dress; but while admiring his serious air, you are roused from your reverie by the rattle of wheels, and on turning, observe a modern Hidalgo, or parvenu, of French fabric, gallopping over the pavement in a light carriage, drawn by six or seven mules, and with several running footmen or outriders, in the most tawdry and ridiculous liveries. The pedestrians form a no less strange contrast in the mixture of French officers, Spanish merchants and citizens, all laughing at each other’s costume, and each unconscious of what is ridiculous in his own; for it is plainly perceptible that the toilette has occupied the minds of all in the preparation for exhibition on the Prado.
The Prado commences at the ancient convent of Antiocha, at this time converted into an hospital, and extends to the Calle d’Alcala, at the entrance of which is a magnificent fountain, representing the goddess Cybele in the centre of a white marble bason, and in a chariot drawn by lions; she holds in her hand a key, the emblem of her attributes, as the goddess of cities and garrisons. The whole is in white marble inimitably executed.
The only fault in the Calle d’Alcala is a small bend, which considerably injures the effect that would be produced if it was perfectly straight. The Puerta d’Alcala, which terminates it, consists of three superb arches, of which the middle is considerably the largest, being about thirty feet high and fourteen broad. The gates are iron richly worked, and the pillars white marble of the Ionic order. Besides the three great arches, destined for carriages and horsemen, on the east side is a lesser one for pedestrians. The total elevation of the gate is sixty feet, and the architrave is ornamented with lions’ heads, &c.
Towards the end of the Calle d’Alcala is a fountain, representing Neptune and his queen, whom the god embraces round the waist; they are standing in a scallop shell, drawn by Hippopotami and attended by Nereids. A marble bason receives the water. This street contains also several other pieces of sculpture, and on one side of it is a botanic garden founded by Charles the Third, where a course of lectures are given gratis. On the right in ascending the street is an unfinished palace, named Buonavista, built by the Prince of Peace; it is very extensive, but not free from faults, particularly in the windows, which are out of all proportion small. It however boasts a good collection of pictures by Murillo, Reubens, Bayeu, Velasquez, &c. amongst which the Marriage of the Adriatic, a pug dog by Velasquez, and a Virgin by Murillo, are peculiarly excellent. In one of the apartments is a bronze statue of Charles the Fifth, which takes to pieces; and it would seem that turning is a favourite amusement of princes, for in another room is a lathe, and all the implements employed in that art. This palace has been several times on fire, and indeed accidents of this nature are surprisingly common throughout Spain, where the houses have not one-third of the timber employed in those of England and France. The principal apartments of this building were now filled with corn and wool.
The palace of the Duke of Medina Sidonia occupies a considerable portion of the Calle d’Alcala, and has one of its fronts towards the Prado; after having been compleatly plundered, it was taken possession of by Monsieur Denio, Commissary General of the French army. The Duke on the entry of the French fled so precipitately, that he did not carry off even his diamonds, which fell into the hands of the invaders.
After viewing these buildings I dined with my officers at the Fonda St. Martin, which, though it has a high reputation, I found wretched enough; indeed the traiteurs in Spain at this time labour under one great désagrément, which renders them little anxious to please, for the great majority of their guests being French officers, who often in their hurry forget to settle their bills, those who have more correct memories are obliged, not only to make up the deficit, but also suffer in the quality and manner of their entertainment. A party of French officers was this day dining at an adjoining table, most of whom retired after a very short repast. Amongst the few who remained was a respectable looking elderly man, with whom I entered into conversation, and found him a pleasant and well informed person, very different from those who had withdrawn, whose conversation turned solely on their achievements in love and war. One of those braggadocios had seated himself at our table, and attempted to join in conversation, but I suppose being ennuyé with English taciturnity, he soon left us and returned to his own table, where, to shew his spite, he wantonly broke several plates and glasses. In this frolic I encouraged him, from the pleasure, malicious I allow, of his increasing his bill under the article of breakages.