I met General Sebastiani, by accident, on the Boulevards. He informed me he had heard of my being at Paris, and said, “you must instantly come home with me, to make you sensible of the arrangements I had made for you.” On my arrival at his house I saw ten covers laid for dinner, and among the names written on the plates I perceived my own: “there,” said he, “dine or not, no other person shall occupy that place so long as you remain at Paris. My Staff consider you as one of themselves; since you left us they have continually talked of you, and a standing toast for some time was your health.” To which I replied, “really, General, I feel so much flattered that I know not how to express myself. I can only say, that your attention, and that of your staff, who are of the first description of gentlemen, possessing qualities the most rare, has made an impression on me never to be effaced; and I confess I felt myself so much at ease from their extreme politeness, that when among them I frequently launched out into follies and eccentricities that caught their fancy, so that I became more their companion than their prisoner; for we all gave scope to the same fancies, and however limited the means might have been at Grenada, certainly we cannot plead that excuse at Paris.” I regretted not having it in my power that day to dine with the General, as I was engaged to Lord Castlereagh; where I had the honour of meeting the Prince of Orange, with several Dutch, English and foreign gentlemen of distinction. The entertainment was extremely splendid, and such as should be given by the representative of Great Britain. In this instance, I was most agreeably disappointed in Lord Castlereagh; having conceived that from his intense application to parliamentary and other official engagements, it might have been presumed he was not quite au fait at such etiquette as his new situation required; but I must do his lordship the justice to observe, that in his solicitous attention to the company, he displayed that ease and affability, united with dignity, which were perfectly characteristic of the high station he was fulfilling, and which reflected infinite honour, both on himself and his country. The conspicuous urbanity of Lady Castlereagh’s manners need not my eulogium.

Among the curiosities I saw at Paris, none amazed me more than the Theatre Mécanique de Monsieur Pierre, and I recommend it to those particularly who find themselves disposed to pay attention to such works of art.

After quitting Paris I again visited Verdun; to look after some property I had left there, consisting of two houses, wine, furniture, &c. and found they escaped much better than I could have expected. Indeed, the Cossacks, on whom they bestow every epithet that is possibly bad, are the most inoffensive and harmless beings in the world. The Baskirs and Calmucks are so lazy that they would not give themselves the trouble to plunder. The Baskirs are armed with bows and arrows, which at this period of civilization surprised me. They were almost naked and miserable in the extreme, both as to themselves and their horses, and extremely ugly. To discern their eyes you must look under them, and their general resemblance one to another is so strong, that you would imagine they were all of the same parents. The same may be observed of those who were selected for England by the Emperor of Russia. In the morning a sort of kettleor machine is sounded, when the troop all assemble at the window of their chief, where they sing hymns to the Almighty, and in praise of their commander, who is particular as to the muster; and this is all the parade or ceremony required. One of their chiefs made signs to me signifying they were all his own property, both men and horses. I should conceive them a sad incumbrance to any army. Their horses, which are miserable, go with their heads near the ground, and have a piece of wood for a bit in their mouths. They appeared scarce able to crawl along, and yet suddenly displayed great agility and made very rapid movements. Indeed, every thing about these people surprised me; they were so unlike whatever I had seen before. I overtook them on their return to Russia, Verdun being the direct line.

I had heard much of the mischief done to the country during the campaign, but was much surprised to find so little, considering the sharp encounters which had taken place, and the towns and country being alternately in possession of the French and the Allies. Some bridges were blown up, and some villages burnt, but nothing of consequence in comparison to what the French merited for their excesses in other countries.

Soon after my arrival in Verdun I had an opportunity of seeing the worthy family of Monsieur Gaud, he having gone on an embassy, with others, to congratulate Louis XVIII. on the restoration of his family. I collected from the general sentiments of the Verdunois, that they were strongly in favour of Napoleon, and hostile to the Bourbons; which, however, were soon changed, by Louis XVIII. sending and judiciously distributing amongst them sixteen white ribbons, and sixteen little pieces of silver, representing a fleur de lis, in value about thirty sous, or fifteen pence, which I have seen termed in the newspapers, “the Order of the Lilly.”

I purchased the chateau at Arnumon, where I formerly resided. It is an antient building, beautifully situated on the borders of the Meuse, and the walls so thick that small apartments are excavated in their centre. The gardens belonging to the château are very extensive, in addition to which I purchased a tolerable quantity of land. I have besides the entire liberty of the chace, and the right of cutting more wood than I can possibly burn in the course of the year. This estate, where I can bathe and fish in the Meuse, may afford me, I conceive, a pleasant retreat for a few months in the summer season, or whenever I may feel inclined to visit France.

I set out on my journey to England in wet and rain, which continued three days. My intention was to go through Holland, but I discovered, by letters, that my presence was required at home; added to which, there would have been a sad inconvenience in passing through Holland, as I understood the accommodations were very bad, and the charges extremely exorbitant. In going through Sedan I had the curiosity to inspect the fortress, so celebrated for being the place of punishment of those English prisoners who attempted to make their escape from other depots. Nothing could be more formidable than the place of confinement for these poor fellows, in the citadel or chateau, which is situated nearly in the centre of the town. To arrive at this abode of systematic torture, you have to pass wo [sic] very extensive covered ways, the latter of which is very steep, and cut through a solid rock. On the entering, you perceive a cell allotted to each person; no communication being ever permitted one with another. The doors of their prison are double, and secured with bars in all directions. Should any one escape out of his cell, the wall to descend in the lower part is about one hundred and sixty feet deep; and having once attained that point, he has to climb over prodigious rocks, and walls formed out of immense heights, surrounded by centinels at short and convenient intervals.

For a stranger to look at these precautions, he would suppose it next to an impossibility to escape; but such is the powerful incentive to liberty, that I have seen and known many common soldiers and sailors, who have escaped from these prisons, without even the assistance of money to clear a passage; and almost all of whom, after having surmounted these difficulties, and obtained the summit of their wishes, uniformly committed themselves by some act of intemperance or folly.

I recollect an instance worthy reciting of a soldier belonging to the 61st regiment, a native of the north of Ireland, who wrote me a note, wishing to see me at the Porte Chaussée Prison in Verdun. On my going there he observed, “I am sorry to be so troublesome to your honour, for this is the fifth time I have troubled your honour within these last fifteen months; and three times I have escaped from the citadel of Sedan. If your honour will look at the state of my limbs you will see how they are worn to the bone; and I have, an please your honour’s honour, been confined in cells under ground; but I have always contrived to make my escape: neither could all the prisons in France contain me, was it not for my own foolishness as soon as I get out. If your honour will but look at the pair of handcuffs, or bracelets, with which I am now ornamented, you may judge. Then taking me a little on one side he disengaged himself from these encumbrances with a dexterity which I did not conceive possible, and again replaced his hands in the situation in which they previously were.

Sedan contains a population of about ten thousand inhabitants, and is remarkable for its manufacture of superfine cloths.

Previous to my arrival there. I passed by the town of Mouzon, leaving it a little to the left: it is celebrated for manufacturing the finest cloths in France.

From Sedan I proceeded over a fertile country, but great part of the way along very bad roads, passing though the town of Mezieres, a fortification strong from its flat situation and natural position, although not in very good repair. I slept at a most abominable place called La Capelle, where I met some persons who dealt largely in cambricks, from St. Quintin, and had much conversation concerning that trade. I passed likewise the fortifications of Landrecy and Quesnoy, which were so celebrated during the campaign of the Duke of York and the Prince of Saxe-Cobourg, since which period the science of warfare must be much improved; for had the Allies wasted their time and resources against several fortifications in their progress, Napoleon would in all probability have been at present on the throne of France. I could not however pass over this country without feeling interested from having heard so much about it, and having marched and countermarched through various parts in Flanders during the Duke of York’s campaign. On my arrival at Valenciennes I put up at the Grand Canard, of which I had heard a good account; but was much disappointed, as it was very uncomfortable, with large straggling rooms, and very dirty. I was soon waited on, and invited to dine with Monsieur Fazeau, the banker, and his brother, which invitation I accepted, and in the evening went to a concert of amateurs, or gentlemen performers, at the public rooms, where the music was delightful. Monsieur Fazeau took a leading part in the concert, and performed with the greatest applause. I was rattier surprised to find so many acquaintances in a place which to me was quite new. Among them I was accosted by my old friend, Colonel Cosini, who was the second in command of this garrison, and chief of the engineer department. Colonel Cosini, I. have already remarked, was head of the engineer department with General Sebastiani. He was an excellent officer in his line, and from whom I derived much information in Spain. On leaving Valenciennes the landlord was determined to make me pay comme un véritable Milord, for my bill was enormous. The best plan I conceived was to pay; but I suggested to my friend Cosini, (as the inhabitants were complaining much of the expenses incurred by having so many soldiers quartered on them) that he must certainly be wealthy, if we might judge by his mode of making out a bill, and therefore such a burthen, however grievous it might be upon others, must be light to him. The result was, he had forthwith thirty additional soldiers quartered on him, which gratified my spleen, and gave me ample revenge of my landlord, who then begged me to admit of his making a deduction from the bill, which I positively refused, observing that, “Messieurs les Milords Anglois had the character of generosity, and I could not think of being the means of depreciating them in the French Opinion,”

From Valenciennes I proceeded on my journey over a very rich country and paved road, until I arrived at the town of Mons, where I rested for the night. My servants preceded me with the carriage, as I had a great desire to ride over the ground and position of Jemmapes, where Dumourier gained that important victory, which awakened the eyes of Europe in some measure as to the danger to be apprehended from carmagnoles, who, until that battle, the grave tacticians and mustacio’d chiefs of the North treated with severe sarcasms and sovereign contempt. The French, however, have taught the . world an awful lesson, as to the imprudence of despising an enemy: and sincerely do I hope that our rulers in England may not, in like manner, hold the Americans too cheap, which may cause a long and disastrous warfare; for I know personally many French officers who have embarked their fortunes in the American cause, although not by the consent of the French government.

From Mons I proceeded the following morning to Brussels. Along the road the peasantry and various persons were inquisitive to know to whom their country was to belong? a question it was not in my power satisfactorily to answer.

On my arrival at Brussels I met many of my old acquaintances in the English army, who were quartered there. My first visit being to the parade, I was highly gratified to see the troops in such excellent order.

There were several English families, and many more expected, most of whom I believe have retired to this part of the world for economy.

Lord Lyndock commanded, whos absence I had to regret, he being then in England, but was expected the following day. I dined with General Fraser, and met many of my old acquaintance. From Brussels I took my departure for Ghent, along a charming road and very rich country. On passing through Alost I had the curiosity to go over the ground on which I was engaged in an action in the army under Lord Moira. The country was nearly the same, with very little alteration. I recollected every spot, and went to the position we occupied, even to the hedge we had partly cut down to admit of our musquetry. From Alost I reached Ghent, being but a short distance, and over a very fine road; and was soon recognized and waited on by an English gentleman, who had been long resident here and at Ostend. There was a Prussian garrison in the city, consisting of about five thousand troops, all well clothed and appointed, in English clothing; one corps in particular I remarked, from being dressed in all respects precisely the same as the 95th regiment. These troops, however, had not a military appearance, being aukward in their discipline, young, and not well set up.

On the following morning I had an opportunity of seeing the total of the force under arms, to receive the Emperor of Russia. There was a violent rain, which continued almost the whole of the day, under which the authorities as well as the troops all paraded. The several corporate bodies, &c. marched out, dressed in silk stockings, with bands of curious looking musicians, to congratulate his Majesty on his arrival at Ghent. Although I could not but admire their public spirit, yet I pitied their situation, for the rain poured in torrents on these full drest and highly powdered people. The Emperor at length arrived, after having detained them sone hours. He received the authorities and corporate bodies in a large tent, erected for the purpose, at the gate entering the town; and then mounted on horseback, and gallopped through all the streets, preceded by a well appointed detachment of Prussian hussars, amidst the shouts and applauses of a numerous body of people. Alexander took off his hat at intervals, and huzzaed also, although going at speed, in a very severe rain. His Majesty, I understood, immediately took his departure for Antwerp.

I had the curiosity soon after to visit the cathedral, which is a handsome and very noble building, well worthy the notice of any traveller who may visit Ghent. There is one small figure of an Angel, cut in marble, on the right side of the altar, which has been much admired for its perfection, and for which more than its weight in gold has been several times refused. In the course of this day, about twenty-five thousand French troops arrived, on their road from Hamburgh to France, composing part of the Prince d’Ekmuhl’s army. I have seldom seen a more soldierlike, or, in all respects, a better appointed body of men, or more calculated for service. Their artillery and all their appointments corresponded, being in excellent order, although after a very fatiguing march.

On leaving the town of Ghent I was accosted by a hearty comfortable looking landlord, who addressed me in bad English, and insisted on my entering his house, which was situated at the extremity of the canal, for the accommodation of canal passengers; his rooms were spacious, commodious, and well fitted up. I promised him that when I again visited Ghent I would stop at his house and smoke a pipe. He insisted on my tasting his Hollands and liquors, which were very good; and, what is rather strange in a Fleming, refused to accept money.

n my arrival at the ancient town of Bruges I found it full of Prussian troops, and it was with difficulty I procured accommodation. The Prussian soldiers indeed are so much complained of, from their exorbitant demands in their quarters, that it has created dissatisfaction bordering on insurrection; they pay for nothing, and are extremely nice in their palate, demanding delicacies in addition to their sustenance with a haughty and imperious tone. The landlord of the inn had acted as an assistant commissary in the army in which I served under his Royal Highness, and we had much conversation relative to past events. I accidentally met in the coffee-room a respectable looking elderly gentleman, who offering his services and being communicative, I invited to take some wine and smoke a segar after dinner. His conversation turning on the entertainment given to the Emperor of Russia, the King of Prussia, and the other illustrious foreigners, in London, he was anxious to know who were the Merchant Taylors who gave this grand fête? for it appeared that both he and the French newspapers had blended and confounded the dinner as being given by the Merchant Taylors, instead of the Merchants, Bankers, &c. of the City at Merchant Taylors’ Hall. I excited much interest by giving him a description and history of the several corporate bodies in London, with an account of the rights and privileges attached to each; and I observed him particularly interested concerning the Taylors. As it was the first time of my life I had heard a taylor described as a fine fellow, I was induced to pump him a little more, when I discovered my friend to be a tailor himself.

In the morning I pursued my journey chiefly along the banks of the canal, until I reached Ostend, the distance not exceeding twelve miles. An English garrison was here, and I was well acquainted with the commandant, who was Lieutenant-Colonel of the 44th, then composing part of it. He introduced me to a Prussian General of Engineers, who was just arrived from England, and was anxious to see the works round the town, which the French certainly have spared neither pains nor expense to render formidable. The situation in some parts being flat, is much in their favour; they are greatly extended, and the old works entirely destroyed; it would now require a considerable force to defend them. At a handsome bridge close to the town is a very large basin of water, formed by the French, and connected with the Bruges canal, for the purpose of deepening the entrance for shipping. The floodgates are constructed on a very simple and ingenious principle, so that one person with the greatest ease opens or shuts them, and they are worthy a traveller’s attention. When these locks are open the water rushes out with prodigious force, forming a violent torrent and cascade, occasioned by a descent or fall from twenty to twenty-four feet. This goes forward with great rapidity to the sea, sweeping in its course quantities of mud and other obstructions, and has the effect, by this means, of deepening the harbour, or at all events prevents its being choked by sand or mud, which otherwise would accumulate.

A little farther on are the locks that had been destroyed by the expedition commanded by Sir Eyre Coote, but which were now re-established on a better and more solid principle. We passed over a drawbridge, and proceeded across the sand hills to visit the fort lately completed to the eastward of the town, to prevent an enemy making an attack on that side. It must, without doubt, have cost an immense deal of money, from the difficulty of obtaining a foundation, being built on the sand. It is constructed entirely of brick, and the ditches are extremely deep; it mounts many guns of various calibre, and is a regular pentagon; its casemates, under ground-works and magazines, are spacious and commodious, and I think, for its size, it is the most perfect and handsome fortification I ever met with. It is commanded, however, by several sand hills within musquet shot, which would disturb the artillery stationed to work the guns; but I have understood it was the intention of the French to have removed these hills, had they kept this position. Go into any country you please where the French have governed, you find their public works and institutions greatly add to its civilization and improvement.

The commandant invited the General and myself to partake of a mess dinner, to which we acceded; the object was to amuse the Prussian, who was a polite and well bred man. We had much interesting conversation, but were frequently interrupted with the brand of music continually playing; for in English regimental messes the rule is to introduce the band, without consulting whether the musicians are good or bad performers. To amuse the Prussian still more, a soldier was sent for who had some humour, and was a great adept at singing comic songs. His figure was in his favour, and his face likewise, having lost an eye, and being much marked by the small pox, and knowingly warped on one side. His songs required a person to be acquainted with slang terms and phrases; but unfortunately the General understood very few words of English, and could not appreciate the merits of these curious notes. On my departure the Prussian officer accompanied me to my hotel, to smoke a segar, where he remarked, although in a polite manner, the whims and curious circumstances of John Bull; and gave me a description of the manner the Sovereigns and the illustrious visitors passed their time in England. What struck him most forcibly was his visit to Woolwich, which he was much surprised to find so abundantly supplied, after having so long furnished the whole world, with means of destruction. He much admired the handsome equipages, and the Bank; but observed that in public buildings France had greatly the superiority.

From Ostend I pursued my journey along the coast to Dunkirk and Calais; from whence I took my passage to England.